So, what about that 2nd gen swap? One major factor for deciding between the two styles is driver preference. It can be configured in a variety of ways with your choice of manifold and turbo, but for a mild street build you could start with an S and cast manifold, or if you want to go nuts you can swap to an S SX-E. But whatever option you choose, stage two is all about getting more air into and out of the engine with less restriction, which paves the way for stage three.
By now the head is clamped down tight, the valvetrain is stable, and there is plenty of cool air making its way into the engine, so the only thing missing is fuel. The common-rail inline six has by far the stronge. The earlier 5. The later 6. If you insist on low RPM boost and torque, a budget friendly upgrade is to install some shot-peened vave connecting rods in your 6.
Either way, a conservative number to shoot for would be between horses and less than 1, pounds of torque at the wheels, and to get there we need a lot more fuel than the stock parts can supply. If you own a Ram, the easiest and simplest way to upgrade the lift pump is with a Fleece Powerflow in-tank lift pump assembly. It installs as a direct replacement to the stock pump and sending unit but has two electric fuel pumps mounted in the bucket.
It will flow enough to support horsepower, and will even work with a dual CP3 configuration, but the best part is since the fuel pump sits inside the tank, it requires no drilling to sump the tank, and its very quiet. When it comes to high pressure fuel, the stock CP3 will throw in the towel somewhere around the hp mark. Although you may not need all 1,hp worth of fuel, the most economical solution is a Deluxe Fleece Dual CP3 kit. It mounts a second belt driven CP3 pump to the engine and comes with a stock displacement CP3K pump which has been modified to supply fuel above 3, RPM.
And because the fueling duties are now split between two pumps, each has much less work to do, so they will last for a very long time. And if one ever fails, you can simply replace it with an affordable stock displacement pump, rather than a pricey stroker CP3. Finally, the valve covers need to come off one more time so we can throw some larger injectors into the engine.
You can push things further however…. Remember the trucks we talked about from the UCC? Yes, you can take your regular k mile Cummins engine to the extreme, but all the parts we had for stage one, two, and three will be thrown out, and we need to start over. Is this all practical? Not exactly, but the better question is how fast do you really want to go? The reality is most owners will stop somewhere between stages two and three.
Maybe they have a modified single VGT and slightly larger nozzles, along with a few airflow and valvetrain upgrades, and are perfectly happy with horsepower. Also, the brands and specific parts you choose may vary, as will your specific power output, but be smart about the order you install parts, avoid doing a job twice, and most importantly, keep an eye on that EGT gauge to keep your pistons happy and the rods inside your block.
On a stage 2 upgrade would it be necessary to upgrade injectors or add a external fuel pump like air dog or fass? Especially on a common rail Cummins, its never a bad idea to upgrade the lift pump with a FASS or AirDog for something simply more reliable and with increased filtration capability compared to the stock system.
I would recommend upgrading for anyone even running a chip or programmer on the upper power levels frequently to avoid failure of the stock pump, which will end up starving the CP3. The stock charger on the 6. This turbo works great for those that are running a chip or programmer, but stock size injectors. If you are running larger injectors, let us know what size, and we can recommend other options. Info is great! I have a Cummings with the Asian transmission. I like to have to hp and to of tq and better fuel mileage.
What do I need to do it? Thank you! Can Bobby and I do it? And please we trust you. What exactly do we need to buy and in what order. For a Ram, we have found that the largest issue for trying to get to the hp mark is the bottom end. If you are not wanting to do any bottom end work, hp would be the max you would want to push it. We have seen the rods either bend, or break above the hp mark. With that being said a hp truck is nothing to be ashamed of.
Also you can make this horsepower level with all emission intact. Here are the parts that I would suggest for that horsepower in the order I would purchase in. Tuning would have to be updated for the new injectors and turbo. All of these parts will allow your factory emissions to function as normal all while making that hp mark.
Now, of course, the transmission will have to be upgraded to handle this level of power. If you have the 68RFE we have complete transmissions, and or upgraded parts.
If you have the G56 manual trans, clutch will have to be upgraded. Last but not least if you have the Aisin automatic, there is really nothing available for those other than a thermal bypass. We have had Aisin trans equip trucks here running at the hp level and they seem to hold pretty well. For further info, I would suggest giving one of our knowledgeable sales techs a call. They can certainly answer further questions and or get an order started for you! Thanks for reading our blog and for the inquiry.
On a , many of the same principles will apply, but obviously a slightly different parts list for the VP trucks. I would recommend starting with the exhaust, intake, Smarty, FASS, and get your transmission in shape. From there, add the Edge Comp Box and turbo, followed shortly by the injectors and then get your airflow in order with the intercooler and intake manifold.
Trying to get a close guess on HP. ARP studs,90 over inj. Truck is super fast and fuel efficient. I live in the middle of nowhere so looking for approximate HP rating without shipping the truck somewhere. Any additional upgrades you suggest? Thanks for your time and advice. Hi there and thanks for the question. That said, without knowing tire size or gear ratio, I would guess that your truck is putting to the ground about horsepower. For the Ultimate in strength.
Converts your stock Radius Arm front suspension to a true four link. Why you might ask? Accommodates more lift Required when switching from a mechanical to electric lift pump to block off the original mechanical fuel pump port in the engine block.
Upper and Lower Heavy Duty replacement and extended length control arms for you 3rd gen or early 4th gen 4 wheel drive truck. Available in single o These parts are to build a hardcore, heavy duty, no rattle and good looking traction bar set for your current leaf spring Ram truck. Built t This is a subtracted part from our 1st gen to 3rd gen coil axle swap kit, but is perfect for those 2nd, 3rd and early 4th gen guys either wantin Replaces your original radius arm with a much stronger and better looking part that These are 1.
This is a frame mount bracket set to bolt traction bars to your 3rd or 4th gen ram at the frame end with mounting hardware. This is the frame mount Dodge AAM 9. The Dodge AAM 9. Empire Theme by Pixel Union. Far From Stock Big Order?
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Ram Trucks. Lifted Trucks. Chevy Trucks. Jdm Wheels. Aftermarket Wheels. First Gen Dodge. Forged Wheels. The fuel system was upgraded with an AirDog lift pump, an percent-over CP3 pump from Industrial Injection, as well as hp injectors. Even more surprising were the dyno numbers, as when Joey hit the rollers with his truck, it clicked off an impressive rear-wheel horsepower.
Best of all, Joey still sled pulls and tows trailers with his daily driven beast. Your email address will not be published. Share 9. Tweet 0. Pin it 0. Up next. Published on 04 March Author Jason Sands. Share article The post has been shared by 9 people. Facebook 9. Twitter 0. Pinterest 0. Mail 0. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.